The Infusion of Religion

Religion in Arab countries, more than anywhere else permeates into the culture and everyday life of its people. Morocco is 99% Muslim, and Islam doesn't stick to the religious sector of life, it overflows into the social component of society of everyone living here. The same pattern is found in every Arab country across North Africa and the Middle East. Everyday you cannot help but hear the five prayer calls that fill the air throughout the day and night. Not everyone goes to prayer at the Mosque when the "salaat" is sounded, but many pray at home or work. There are different levels of dedication. Just like every religion, Islam has its devout and its identifiers. Some people may go to the Mosque five times daily, and others may go only on Friday, the holy day of the week Islam. Whether someone is a faithful and a "good" Muslim, obeying all the laws of the Koran, they consider themselves Muslim. In taxis you can find scripture or religious paraphernalia on the dashboard or windows, "Sufi", or religious, music playing on the radio. Walking through the streets in Fes you can find a variety of dress, ranging from traditional garments dating back a thousand years to the latest Moroccan, westernized fashion. Younger women, for the most part, dress similar to those in Europe or the U.S.. You will never see a girl wearing shorts though or clothes that are immodest. Some wear the traditional dress, but you find that almost all married and older women wear robes and the hijab. The hijab is a headscarf that covers all but the woman's face, and most older women wear a veil as well. I have seen some women with full length robes, black gloves, head covering, and a black veil that completely covers the face.
It is hard to tell sometimes whether women see their role and submission to Islam as devout or oppressive. In most families, westernized or not, the women of the house do all the cleaning and cooking. In my homestay, my host father, Jamal, will help out with house chores and cook when Fatwa is not home. Other students have told me of their families. One husband told my friend that his wife loved the kitchen and never wanted to leave. Many Moroccan men do nothing at home and are waited on by their wives. For many wives, the absence of men in the house is a time to relax and rest. On the whole, women are very submissive and men and women take very traditional roles. As globalization continues, progressivism does has an effect on society. An effect in some cities, like Fes, that is actually being somewhat turned back and has become more traditional in places like the old medina. Men also dominate the job market. Women can be found in certain shops in the Nouvelle or working in the medina. But 90% of workers I have observed are men. Being an independent working women doesn't hold the same approval and prestige as in America. It is reputable to have a husband and take care of the family and raise children.
As for men, most dress similar to Europeans, but conservative. Moroccan men, especially young men, take pride in always looking trendy and fashionable. Occasionally you might see a man in his twenties wearing a djelleba and a full beard, but this is rare. Many older men dress traditionally and look no different than they would have hundreds of years ago.
A taxi driver this past week explained to John and I how Islam was about peace and embraced harmony. The theme of peace is prevalent in the religion, but I haven't been able to help but notice how aggressive Arab men are. My observations of boys and men have formed an image of a majority of non-passive personalities. Young boys are quick to fight and I see commonplace arguments and behavior that would be considered quite a scene or deemed disgraceful in the U.S.. This isn't the case for all Moroccan men as I have met some that are very friendly and passive people that embrace their teachings, but on the whole I have seen a society that in general doesn't practice what it preaches. I am not referring to anything about extremism which is very much a minority and many Muslims will tell you that terrorism in the name of Islam is a disgrace to their religion. But many have no problem with any harm coming to Israel or American troops.
Another example of how the religion of Islam is a part of everyday life in Morocco is the language. In Arabic, references to god are prevalent in greetings and references to the deceased or the prophet Mohammed. The traditional and most widely used greeting for hello is "salaam alaikum" meaning literally, "peace be upon you". The greeting is followed by the response " wa'alaikum a'salaam", meaning "and peace be upon you as well". A widely spoken phrase, used for almost any occasion is "alhamdu'allah", usually pronounced "hamdulillah". It means "praise or thanks be to god". Whether you are Muslim or not, the everyday greetings and phrases contain references to religion or god. When saying the name Mohammed in reference to the prophet it is always followed by "prayers be upon him", and a similar phrase is mentioned after the name of anyone who is deceased.
One thing that has impressed me here in Morocco is the abundance of patterns and structure in Islam. The pattern and number of five is extremely prevalent. The five prayers a day, the five pillars, the number five is even apparent in mosaics in the architecture. Many tiles in building have octagonal patterns for the eight doorways to heaven. Patterns are everywhere in the Arabic language. The root of a verb can be changed into one of ten different patterns to have a different meaning. The language and aspects of the religion are all very structured. It is no surprise that the Arabs were pioneers in math and science.
From speech, to dress, to gender roles, there is no separation between society and religion in Islam. The culture us filled with aspects of the religion. It can even be seen in the patterns in architecture that permeate even the smallest details of buildings in the medina. This culture holds views and values very similar and very different to ours. Being here makes me realize the amount of freedom we have in America. Not everyone in this country holds the same liberties. This is especially true for women, but also applies to men as well. As globalization and secularism spreads this will change some, but Islam will make sure its people hold on to there values and will not compromise their beliefs. There is a meeting between the Near East and the West, some will embrace it, but others will not and may hold tighter on tighter than before. One thing is for sure. Islam has its place in this society and this culture, and government cannot take it away. To be Arab is to be Muslim, and to be Muslim is to be a part of society.

~Andrew